11.3.13

Il tutto di Veneto


This weekend we traveled to Venice for an art history trip with the program.  Unfortunately, it was extremely wet all weekend, but that seems to be the consistent weather report for Venice: damp. The first day was filled with many activities. I feel like every corner we turned we encountered yet another stand for tourists. I was also constantly freaking out over the canals. After we arrived we went to our hotel that was extremely close to Santa Maria Novella. I was furious to find that my beautiful camera decided to stop working (it could turn on/off and take video but would not take a picture – I was convinced the lens was cracked or something) and had to settle on using my iPhone to document the entire weekend, but more on that later. We had some lunch, and then headed to the Chiesa dei Santa Maria dei Frari. The church holds Tiziano’s Assuzione della Vergine and Pesaro Madonna, many tombs, and a sacristy.

Chiesa di S. Maria
Assuzione delle vergine

Next was the big stop: the famous Piazza di San Marco! It war ridiculously crowded, and it wasn’t any better inside the Basilica. I couldn’t get a great picture inside, but the mosaic title EVERYWHERE was magnificent and so unique to the rest of the churches I’ve seen in Italy so far. We were also wondering if we could go up the Campanile di San Marco, the bell tower, but figured it was probably impossible. After Bologna, I’m going to avoid towers for a long, long time. Our teacher told us that foreigners were never actually allowed up the tower in the past because Venice’s main advantage (pre-Napoleon, anyway) was how difficult the city was to navigate. If a foreign trader, for example, was able to get up the tower, they could have drawn a map and Venice would have lost its main military advantage.

Ponte di Rialto!
The Tower (aka massive library inside)

Zodiac clock in Piazza S. Marco
TILES INSIDE


From the second floor of the Basilica :)
Ahhhh gondolas but at 30 euro way too much ahah

We were all surprised to learn that these two stops were the only two we had to make for our class trip! From here on, we had a day and half to do whatever we liked in Venice. Additionally, we had Monday off from our classes, so I made travel plans with a friend to hit up as much of Veneto as we physically could.

Just about died (via Instagram) 
A while before dinner I decided to get something to eat because I was staring, and I found an amazing calzone somewhere in the heart of Venice. We dined at a restaurant near our hotel, and afterwards, gelato, of course! Peach and mango, to be specific. AMAZING. For day 2 of Venice, most of us decided that Palazzo Ducale had to be our main destination. It had dungeons that did not disappoint. Neither did the museum! So many weapons and a few other interesting things…ie. A medieval chastity belt. Ouch.

A scarier version from Men in Tights
dundundundundundungeons
Palazzo Ducale took up most of the day, but after that we all parted ways, and the real adventure began. Rach and I went to San Marco and purchased 24-hour tickets to use the water taxi in and around Venice. Our first stop: Murano, an island which is famous for its hand-crafted colored glass. We ended up splitting a miniscule lunch at a small restaurant here, much to the chagrin of the owner. #sorrynotsorry

Insane glass!
Murano was tiny, and unlike Venice, virtually empty of tourists. It still had the feel of Venice, but the lack of crowds was fantastic. We walked around the island for a while, and I got some great souvenirs for my friends in the form of small, glass animals. There were many large glass sculptures around the island too!

It didn’t take long for us to great through Murano before hopping on a water taxi and headed to the night’s destination: Lido di Veneto, a larger island on the south side of Venice. The taxi seemed to take FOREVER, and we had to change at Piazza San Marco. While this was a great, wholly unique experiences, I do not wish to repeat it. Tooooo breezy. We had some trouble finding our hotel when arriving in Lido, but after some bad directions on my part (I blame Google Maps and my inherent lack of direction) we arrived! We were shocked to find how nice our hotel was for how little we paid for the night. The receptionist was also lovely, and she spoke 3 languages! She told us that practicing with clients help, and I can completely understand her decision to immerse herself - the same method is helping my Italian! I can call the ProntoBus pretty well now, but I’m a bit upset that I only have my literature class at the University to look forward too. I loved my grammar classes with Francesca and definitely want to continue studying Italian grammar on my own when I get back to the States.

Once we settled into the hotel we checked in with our families with our limited internet access. Rach and I basically sat in silence for our few precious minutes of paid internet, haha. My parents also recently got iPhones, and oh man. I feel bad for not being at tome right now to help them with the transition. Soon enough our internet ran out, and the receptionist gave us a recommendation for a restaurant. Lido, like Venice, was wet, but like Murano, virtually unpopulated with tourists. We couldn’t find the recommended restaurant but found somewhere else. This restaurant was super crowded, but the food was fantastic, and the service was awful, so there was a strange balance. We walked around Murano for a little bit before heading back to our hotel, taking showers, and watching Honey Boo Boo in Italian before falling asleep.

In the mornin'
:)
 Our water taxi and train the next morning were fairly early, so we got up, had the BEST free breakfast ever before heading out to the coast of Lido and experiencing the Mediterranean. I don’t even go to the beach very often when I’m home, and yet, I’ve missed it since seeing it in Viareggio. Lido seems like it would be a beautiful place to spend a summer vacation, and I’m definitely making a mental note of this for the future. Thankfully, our water taxi took us all the way back to Santa Maria Novella, and we got some great canal shots of the inside of Venice!

Our train was relatively on time, and after 20 years I was back in the place where I was born: Padova :)

Again, it took us some time to find our hotel, and when we passed a pretty church we saw a man with a broken nose inside and proceeded to walk away very quickly. We also saw a homeless man that was on our train and were marginally concerned. We stayed at the Best Western Birri Hotel, where my dad worked when I was a baby. I met some of his old friends, who were all surprised to see me, haha.  Two of my dad’s other old friends also agreed to show us around Padova, which was extremely handy because after two full days of walking we were exhausted.

Downtown Padova was precious, and had few cars! We saw the Piazza dei Signori, Palazzo della Ragione, Prato della Valle, and the Basilicia di Sant’Antonio, which was my favorite. Like most (if not all) churches in Italy, it was beautiful. It’s also one of the most popular places for pilgrimage by devout Catholics. Sant’Antonio (or Saint Anthony) was well-known for his powers of healing. His tomb still erests inside the Basilica, and it’s said if you touch the tomb and are ill, you will be healed. Obviously, no photos were allowed inside, but we got to touch the tomb! We also saw a short film about the Basilica in a different part of the Church, and after seeing the gift shop I remembered how so many churches were also great businesses. By the end of the day, we were even more exhausted, and my dad’s friend was kind enough to get us dinner, and we ate in the hotel bar before turning in early. (For some reason I never uploaded my Padova pictures....but w/e this is the best one anyway!)

Basilica di Sant'Antonio! via my Instagram
The next morning, more of my dad’s friends came to see us, or rather my dad’s friend’s sons, Niccolo and Mattia. They visited us in Maryland back in 2007, and I almost didn’t recognize them when they came to pick us up. I was super nervous about having to use my Italian around them, despite my many improvements. The drive from Padova to Vicenza didn’t take very long, mostly because the boys were speeding, but shh. It was strange to be reintroduced to their mom and aunt, whom I met before, but it was great to see everyone again. Unfortunately, my dad’s friend was out of the country at the moment, so I made (unspecified) plans to return and visit them before the end of my semester.

Remember my broken camera? Yeah. Not so much broken as filled with cheap batteries. I’m a genius, clearly.

We had a delicious home-cooked meal before exploring the town of Vicenza. The family gave us a book of Vicenza (in English!) to decide what things to go see. The boys and some of their friends showed us around Vicenza, but of course it was Monday, which is the equivalent of a Sunday in the States, therefore many places were closed for the day. Even so, it was still beautiful! We went to a beautiful church first, and I definitely felt like we were getting many stares for being some of the only tourists around.

All of Vicenza!

The villa that was closed :(

 After we got a nice tour of Vicenza, we went to Verona for the last leg of our 4-day weekend. Verona was really cute. We saw the Colesso, the third oldest colosseum in the world, and met some Romans, La Casa di Giulietta (take a guess), and explored the nearby Piazzas. Our hosts were nice enough to put us a Freccia back to Parma, so we could make it back in time for our classes. I felt bad that we had to cut the weekend so short, and I couldn’t say goodbye to everyone, but I’m sure I’ll see them again.

Guess whoooo?
Romeo's POV, probs


Arena di Verona!
Inside the Arena!

Chillin' with some Romans





To come: EASTER BREAK!

6.3.13

Mantoooooova

EVERYONE GO TO MANTOVA.

This little town in Lombardia is beautiful, small, and absolutely perfect for a day trip!

My journey was a little more personal as I was planning to two with two family friends who hadn’t seen me since the age of 5. My ‘aunt’ recognized me more or less as soon as she saw mw on the platform of the train station in Mantova and took me to her house, which was a grand total of 2 minutes away. After getting acquainted with my other aunt, we sat down for dinner. They weren’t sure what I ate, so they more or less prepared everything available. I was super tired and had a quick shower before sleeping in the comfiest bed ever for 8 straight hours.

I got up the next morning and went to the train station to pick up my friend, who was coming to stay with us. We went back to the apartment and warmed up a bit before heading out to go around Mantova. We saw the Basilica di Sant’Andrea (which was still going through massive renovations because of last year’s terrible earthquake), La  Rotunda di San Lorenzo and Torre Fancelliana, Il Duomo (just the outside), Palazzo Ducale (THE MOAT WAS INSANE), and a lake (whose name escapes me atm) before lunch.

Basilica di Sant'Andrea

La Rotunda - an extremely appropriate name
Inside the Rotunda
The Tower



I WANT A MOAT


Il Duomo


Inside the Duomo




We had the best pasta con panna for lunch before heading to the best gelato across down on Corso Garibaldi and then, we finally went to the infamous Palazzo Te, which might be my favorite place with some of the most ridiculous artwork that I’ve seen since getting to Italy. We couldn’t take pictures, but I think it was better to just be forced to really look and appreciate the insane frescos.

Grounds of Palazzo Te
La camera di amore e psiche
La camera dei giganti
Saturday night was spent having the LARGEST possible dinner at my aunt’s restaurant — mortadella to start, 3 plates of pasta, and (literally) an entire chicken in the form of cotolette. And dessert. And two bottles/things of wine. Insane. My friend and I were convinced we were going to explode.

My I'm-clearly-too-excited-but-am-gonna-regret-this face
Sunday was simpler. We got up, found a pretty secret, small canal, went to see the inside of the Duomo and walked around the open market. My friend found a great new piece of jewelry and I found a handmade ceramic Mantovian plate for my parents! We also bought a small picture frame for my aunts (which they berated us for) and proceeded to take dozens of pictures together to remember the trip. Once we told them they could use one of the photos for the frame they were much happier.

I feel like this is a great preview for Venice

:)))))
We ended up having some foolish train problems on the way back to Parma but eventually made it back safe and sound. Next week = Venice, Padova, Vicenza, and Verona! Thanks for reading!

3.3.13

Back in Milano


Last time I was in Milan I was severely jet-lagged and cranky, but this time was much nicer.

On Tuesday we had an organized day-trip to Milan to get into some art history shenanigans. We arrived in Milan around 9:30, sun shining, and essentially no snow on the ground, which made me super jealous. Our program bought us Metro passes for the day, which we first used to go to Castello Sforsezco, the castle of the Visconti family ruled Milan during the 14-15th centuries.


As we walked in we realized Fashion Week was currently in session in Milan, and there was a huge, closed off tent in the middle of the Castello’s grounds. The Castello was filled with ancient artifacts ranging back hundreds of years. A lot of it was sculpture-based, but there was also a great armory we got to peek into.

We didn’t get a chance to see absolutely everything, but the big event was seeing Michaelangelo’s Pietà Rondanini up close and personal. He started the sculpture in the early 1550s but died before its completion. You can definitely see the incompleteness in the sculpture – some parts look extremely completed and polished while other parts are still rough.


Best tomb ever

 After we finished our appointment at the Castello, we were given 4 hours (11:00-15:00) to explore Milan. Most of us decided to go to the Duomo via the Metro. Milano’s Duomo makes Parma’s look tiny and insignificant. Between the Piazza with the statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, the Duomo’s architecture, and the handful of preserved bodies inside, our little Parmigiano Duomo didn’t stand much of a chance. We weren’t allowed to take any photos inside unless we paid, but many people still did.
Il Duomo!

Look at the fading
After we finished inside, we wanted to find Teatro Farnese, but first, we popped into La Galleria di Vittorio Emanuele II, which was right next to the Duomo. There was some fun shops there with some quasi-recognizable names. 
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II


Next, we went to have lunch in a small local restaurant, which had a quasi-pasticcera downstairs and tables for eating upstairs. I had the locally famous Risotto Milanese with the cheapest glass of wine, and it was awesome. Risotto is one of my favorite Italian dishes and with saffron? Yum. Apologies because I didn’t have my iPhone to take any obnoxious Instagram photos. After lunch we found the Quadrilatero, which is a four-street intersection of some of the most expensive shopping in Milan. We also did some climbing up this cool sculpture we found.


At 3, we met up with our program directors for the big event of the day: to see da Vinci’s Last Supper at La Chiesa della Santa Maria. Appointments have to be booked months in advance and can be extremely expensive and the best part? The appointments are only fifteen minutes long. We waited to enter into a humidity-controlled chamber before entering the convent next to the Church. The Last Supper was located inside the convent’s dining hall – appropriate, but thanks to the humidity from the kitchen, who shared a wall with da Vinci’s supper, a lot of it is already fading.

The grounds of the church
Obviously, we weren’t allowed to take any photos inside, but our guide gave us a lecture on da Vinci’s piece along with the other fresco on the opposite wall. I thought we’d have some time at least be on the balcony by the Last Supper to observe it closer, but within 30 seconds of the lecture being over so was our appointment. I stayed for a little longer until security barked at us to get out.

Just in case you want/need a reference point - it doesn't really resemble this anymore :(
I still don’t understand why we had to have a guide who talked for 14 MINUTES OF OUR 15 MINUTE APPOINTMENT when there were PLENTY of signs for us to read on our own. I just wanted time to look at it!

Of course, they led us to the bookstore after the appointment was over…and of course, I bought 2 postcards.

Our official events for the day were over, so we had freedom to stay in Milan a little longer or head back to Parma. About half of us stayed behind. I arranged to meet up with a friend of mine who’s in Milan for the semester, and we grabbed some coffee and caught up with each other. He was even nice enough to take me to Milano Centrale, and I made the 6:15 back to Parma.

Our week didn’t stop there – We saw an opera yesterday at Parma’s Teatro Reggio. We saw Nabucco (click here to learn a bit about it). It was great, albeit long. Having some background knowledge on the opera definitely helped with my comprehension, especially since any comprehension I might normally have was drowned out by the singing or ancient Italian – the subtitles helped.




Currently in Mantova but will update the blog once I'm back in good 'ol Parma!